Audrey Hepburn's Enduring Impact on Fashion

The opening scene of the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s sees Audrey Hepburn’s character Holly Golightly stepping gracefully out of a New York taxicab wearing an elegant, timeless, silk black dress. Custom designed by Hubert de Givenchy, Hepburn’s ‘little black dress’ (a term later coined by Coco Chanel), soon became an iconic and enduring image of sophistication. When picturing Audrey Hepburn’s renowned style, this is likely the first image to come to mind; her legacy, however, in the fashion industry extends far beyond this.

When cast in Sabrina (1954) Hepburn was sent by director Billy Wilder to Paris in search of garments for the film. It was on this trip that Hepburn first met Hubert de Givenchy, at the time an emerging fashion designer. While Givenchy declined to design any custom items for the film, Hepburn did pick three previously made pieces: an angular grey suit, a cocktail dress with intricate bows on each shoulder, and a white strapless gown embroidered with black flowers. Hepburn later reminisced on this pivotal experience: “Fashion came into my life when I had my very, very first couture dress made by Hubert de Givenchy — the beauty was extraordinary.” 

The beauty of these costumes took centre stage, catching the imagination and attention of both the general public and the fashion industry alike. It was this initial partnership between Hepburn and Givenchy that led to her becoming his muse, something that catapulted her to fashion stardom alongside her success in Hollywood. Reflecting on her collaboration with Givenchy — which spanned over three decades — Hepburn stated, “Givenchy’s clothes are the only ones I feel myself in. He is more than a designer; he is a creator of personality.” 

Part of the appeal of Hepburn’s outfits and fashion “personality” was their accessibility to 1950s audiences. In Sabrina, the plot follows the transformation of Hepburn’s character from a plainly clothed chauffeur’s daughter to a beautifully dressed sophisticated woman, following her two year trip to Paris. This evolution in Sabrina’s style appealed to middle-class female audiences, as they too believed they could undergo such a change. 

At the same time, Hepburn’s personal style was not vastly dissimilar from her wardrobe on screen. She accessorised with minimal jewellery and simple makeup, often wearing outfits with clean-cut lines. Her frequently worn clothing items included capri pants, ballet flats, and large sunglasses. Hepburn also incorporated more masculine elements into her wardrobe, going against the grain of her time’s fashion expectations. Hepburn herself talked about how attainable her look was, stating in 1989, “They can look like Audrey Hepburn if they want, by cutting off their hair, buying the large sunglasses, by having the little sleeveless dresses.” She also hinted at the impact fashion can have on women’s identity and success: “I created a look in order to make something of myself.” Arguably then, Hepburn believed that a distinctive wardrobe and style were necessary to cement her status as an actor, and influential public figure. This prompts one to ask whether Hepburn would have achieved the same level of success as an actor, without “this look”, and to consider whether being a woman made this necessary. 

Later in her life, Hepburn moved her focus from acting to humanitarian and social causes, undertaking the role of UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador from 1988 to 1993. Reflecting this significant shift, her style inevitably included less ‘haute couture’. Nevertheless her wardrobe remained distinct and identifiable, maintaining her minimal elegance and the quintessential Audrey Hepburn ‘look’.

This “look” remains highly influential today, with contemporary designers still taking inspiration from her iconic ensembles. Hepburn’s original outfits are also fiercely sought after; one dress Hepburn wore to the Oscars in 1954 was auctioned for £84,000 in 2011. A more staggering price was paid for one of the black dresses in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which sold for approximately £467,200 in 2006. The profits from this sale were donated by Givenchy to aid organisations reflecting Hepburn’s passion for humanitarian work. 

Audrey Hepburn held — and still holds — a clear place in fashion history, with a wardrobe that displayed the epitome of accessible elegance and sophistication. Her unique style arguably created a powerful and enduring legacy that will undoubtedly continue to inspire. 

Image from Wikimedia Commons