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Coffee Coexistence: The Chains and Local Cafes of St Andrews



Whether you’re a tea lover, chai fiend, coffeeholic, or matcha connoisseur, St Andrews students have a large selection of coffee shops and cafes to choose from when deciding where to fulfil their beverage cravings. There’s certainly no shortage of cafes within St Andrews, and it's safe to say students have adopted a certain coffee culture. Cafes serve a greater purpose than merely places to grab a coffee or pastry: they are places to read, catch up with friends, or (as last issue’s Devil’s Advocate unsuccessfully challenged) study. It’s evident from the constant stream of students bustling in and out of coffee shops that this coffee culture is alive and well. However, how has the recent increase in coffee chains influenced coffee culture within St Andrews? 


To answer this question, I interviewed the owners of three independently run cafes in town: Spoiled Life, Cottage Kitchen, and Taste, to get their perspective on whether the influx of chain cafes in St Andrews has impacted their business. 


In recent years, coffee shops have popped up around St Andrews, specifically the well known chains that now line Market Street. Though some might assume that an increase in coffee shops would lead to a rise in competition between these establishments, it soon became apparent that this was not the case. Each store owner I interviewed was not intimidated by the recent invasion of chains and instead emphasised their unique characteristics that they were confident set them apart from the competition.


Glenn Malloy, founder of Spoiled Life, agrees that an uptick in chains does not pose a severe threat to their business. They have not experienced a decline in customers, other than the natural fall in sales during the pandemic. Malloy explained that local cafes, such as Spoiled Life, have an intangible offering chains cannot compete with: warmth and personality. “I just think [customers] like the vibe better,” Malloy said.


Unlike traditional cafes, Spoiled Life also offers a shopping experience, with a large clothing selection on the lower level and a range of accessories and lifestyle items on the ground floor. When Spoiled Life first opened, Malloy and his partner envisioned the retail side of the store to be the focal point. Malloy said that initially, “We thought the store was going to be the biggest part of the business, but really the cafe has just seemed to have taken over, like 50 per cent of the business really, if not more, when the students are there.” 


Malloy agreed that he has definitely seen an increase in chain cafes, and he’s even heard rumours of another one opening soon. However, he fervently believes that Spoiled Life offers a unique experience that chain cafes don’t. “We’re a different experience really, because we have the store side and stuff. It's a different experience from people just running in and grabbing a coffee at a big chain.”


Malloy credited much of their success to the students: “I think there are a lot of people who would rather support small independents than bigger chains,” he said. He attested to the coffee culture within St Andrews, adding that the local coffee industry is “definitely a student business.” 


When creating their famous seasonal drinks, Malloy mentioned that their menu is shaped by ideas from their team — 70 per cent of whom are students during the semester — and customer feedback. “We ask [our employees] what they would like to see on the menu, [and] we ask the clientele what they would like to see on the menu, as well.”


Between the uncommon pairing of a cafe and clothing shop and support from students, Spoiled Life has leverage over coffee chains in their ability to create a personable environment for customers. 


Malloy is not alone in recognising the value of offering an intimate experience for students. Grant Poulton, the owner of Cottage Kitchen, agrees that chains don’t pose a real threat to his business, mainly because his cafe offers a “home from home for students.”


When asked what sets Cottage Kitchen apart from alternative cafes, Poulton emphasised its communal feel and fresh ingredients. Its previous owners had this initial vision for Cottage Kitchen, and Poulton has kept its ethos alive. After buying Cottage Kitchen almost eight years ago, he said that “the focus has always been on using local producers,” which he said is “the complete opposite to a lot of other businesses that I see.” 


Jan Leenhouts, director of Taste, echoed Poulton’s sentiments in creating a welcoming place for students to gather and work. He stressed that the students are the ones who set the tone. “I’ve always made sure that Taste is more or less run by students,” said Leenhouts. “I give students a lot of responsibility, and they take it and they do extremely well because of it, and that way, students feel at home here.” 


In the past 25 years, Taste has witnessed St Andrews grow into a more commercial town, with chains replacing storefronts that were once occupied by independently run businesses. Leenhouts noted that “it used to be that there were a lot more independent shops, a lot more independent cafes and restaurants and that kind of stuff.” 


He linked the decline in independently run cafes to increasingly high rates, recognising that “St Andrews rates are [high], you know, and the rents are very high, as well. That makes it difficult for independent entrepreneurs to start something in St Andrews, so that’s why you see the Nandos, the Pret A Mangers — they can afford it.”   


Despite these changes, Taste remains steadfast in their commitment to customers. “If you look forward to your croissant, we will make sure it will be here,” Leenhouts said. He noted that Taste is “a constant in an ever changing town.” 


Unlike most chains, Taste doesn't advertise or offer loyalty vouchers. “It’s like a time warp — Taste doesn’t change,” Leenhouts said, emphasising Taste’s predictability and consistency as their secret to success. 


Did the influx of chain cafes pose a threat to their business? Leenhouts was adamant: “No.” He recognised their independence as one of their key strengths. “We will always be independent. We don’t have to answer to anyone and that makes it a lot easier; we can be flexible when we have to be.”


Many differences exist between these cafes. While Spoiled Life is sleek, modern and offers an extensive seasonal menu, Taste is warm, social, and convenient, and Cottage Kitchen pursues a more rustic feel, they all rely on their individuality to distinguish themselves from the uniformity of chain storefronts. Despite the variety between the three, these independently-owned cafes share a commitment to serving as sanctuaries for students to socialise, study, or sip on a latte.


Whether you’re looking for free Wi-Fi, a quick take away, a place to meet friends, or a place to hide from the bustle of Market Street, there is a local coffee shop for everyone in St Andrews, and it seems, for now, that there are enough coffee devotees to support them.


Illustration: Magdalena Yiacoumi


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